Boot or shoe.



In. 67l,5l8. Patented'Apr. 9, |901.

J. E. JACKSON, Boor 0R sHoE.I

(Appliction led Juno 12, 1900.)

(Nu Modal.)

we Nonms wzrens oo, Pumou'mo.. WASHMGYQN, u. c,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES E. JACKSON, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF TWO-THIRDS TO GEORGE E. BARTLETT, OF SAME PLACE, AND GEORGE C. DAVIS, OF WESTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N o. 671,518, dated .April 9, 1901.

Application led June 12, 1900. Serial No. 19,988. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom t may oon/cern: with cement, and a half inner sole b, compris- Be it known that I, JAMES E. JACKSON, of ing shank and heel portions, is placed on the Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massaid sock-lining as it appears in Eig. 1. The sachusetts, have invented certain new and portions of the upper at the heel and shank useful Improvements in Boots or Shoes, of of the shoe are then lasted over, lining and 55 which the following is a description sufliall, and fastened by lasting-tacks tothe half ciently full, clear, and exact to enable those inner sole, as represented in Fig. 1, where the skilled in the art to which it appertains or reference-lettercdesignatesthe marginal porwith which it is most nearly connected to tion of the upper, which is thus lasted over. ro make and use the same. Beyond the shank of the half inner sole the 6o This invention :relates to boots and shoes of leather of the upper is not so lasted over; but the stitched-down type; and one object is the lining d is lasted over throughout and in to provide for obviating any cutting of the the forward portion of the shoe is connected upper where it turns outwardly for stitching to the sock-lining a by the cement with which down to the outer sole by so arranging the the latter is coated. Where the lasted por- 65 fastenings which unite the component parts tion of the leather of the upper leaves off in of the shoe as to close the crease Where the rear of the forward edge of the half inner marginal portion of the upper folds on itself, sole the marginal part of this leather is turned ahalf inner sole, to which the heel and shank outwardly, as shown at c', so that it folds zo portions of the upper are lasted, being utilupon itself along the lines c", and through- 7o ized in this connection. out the ball portion and toe of the shoe the With the above-stated and other incidental marginal portion c2 of the leather of the upobjects in View, as will hereinafter appear, per stands out from the last at this stage of the present invention consists inanuniber of the operation. The outer sole e is placed novel features of construction and combinaupon the last over the lasted portion o of the 75 tions of parts, the essential elements of which upper, the folded portions c thereof, and the are set forth in the appended clai'fns and a liningcl, leaving the marginal portion c2 of preferred form of embodiment of which is the leather outside and free to be manipuillustratedin the accompanying drawings and lated. This outer sole is secured in place by 3o specifically described hereinafter. temporary fastenings, as. usual, and then the 8o Of said drawings, Figurel representsabotmarginal portion of leather c2 is drawn up tom plan View of the shoe in'an incomplete and tacked temporarily to the edge of the state, as when on the last after the heel and outer sole, and the shoe goes to the sewingshank portions of the upper have been lasted machine to have this marginal portion of over and secured to the half inner sole and leather stitched down to the outer sole. A 85 the vamp-lining has been lasted over and seloose welt-strip f is carried by said machine cured to the sock-lining. Fig. 2 represents and laid over the upper as a line of stitches a sectional top plan view of the completelyf is runthrough this welt-strip, the marginal assembled shoe, the upper appearing as cut portion of the upper, and the outer sole. The 4o off close to the sole and the sock-lining being welt-strip is extended at each side of the shoe 9o represented as partiallybroken away. Fig. 3 beyond the inwardly-extending edges of the represents the completed shoe in side elevafolded-over parts of the leather, as shown in tion with the toe partly broken out and in sec- Figs. 2 and 3. The stitching-down operation tion. Figs. 4 and 5 are cross-sectional views having been completed, the shoe is ready to taken substantially on lines 4 4 and 5 5 of be run through a machine which unites the 95 Figs. 2 and 3, respectively. inner and outer soles and the lasted portion In building the shoe the component parts c of the upper by through-and-through fasof the upper are assembled much as usual and tenings, and the shoe is here shown as McKayplaced over the last, and a full sock-lining a sewed in the shank and heel, the line of 5o is laid on the bottom of the last and coated stitches h being carried forward somewhat roo beyond the half inner sole, as shown in Fig. 2, which takes the stitches through the foldedover portions c of the upper. `The component parts of the shoe having now all been united, the shoe is ready for the beating-out process.

In assembling the parts of the upper the leather and the cloth lining of the vamp are .so stitched together that when the lining is lasted over and secured tothe sock-lining the Whole vamp is drawn to the shape of the last, except, of course, the marginal portion, which is to be stitched down to the outer sole. In the stitching-down process this marginal portion is drawn to the last, and the crowding in of the welt-strip assists in the shaping of the shoe, so that altogether the completed shoe will be perfectly conformed to the last.

It will be observed that by carrying the two setsof stitches f and h past each other where Fig. 3, sothat it is thickest at the outer edge` and tapers toward the crease of the upper.

A shoe constructed as above described possesses the highest degree of fieXibi-lity in the ball portion, adding greatly to the comfort of the wearer. At the same time the shank possesses the desired stiness.

The shoe can be, Very cheaply made, for there is no great strain imposed upon the upper, as in the construction of a turned shoe,

and at the same time the shoe will have as great flexibility as a turned shoe and, moreover, can be readily made water-tight.

Having th us explained the nature of theinvention and described a way of constructing and using the same, though without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modes of its use, it is declared that what is claimed isl. In a boot or shoe the combination of a halt' inner sole comprising heel and shank portions; a full sock-lining; an upper lasted in over the said half innerV sole and having a lining 4lasted in over the forward portion of the sock-lining and secured thereto, the marginal portion of the vamp of the upper being turned outwardly away from its said lasted lining and folded on itself between the shank and heel portions and in rear of the front edge of the half inner sole; an outer sole; through-and-through fastenings uniting the latter, the half inner sole, and that portion of the upper which is lasted over said inner sole, said fastenings extending through the folded portions of the vamp; and fastenings securing the outwardly-turned marginal portion of the vamp to the saidouter sole, substantially as described.

2. In a boot or shoe the combination'of a half inner sole comprising heel and shank l portions; a full sock-lining; an upper lasted in over the said half inner sole and having a lining lastedv in overthe forward portion of the sock-lining and secured thereto, the: marginal portion of the Vamp of the upper being turned outwardly away from its said lasted lining and folded on itself between the shank and heel portions and in rear of the front edge of the half inner sole; an outer sole;

through-and-through fastenings uniting the l latter, the half inner sole, and that portion of the upper which is lasted over said inner sole, said fastenings extending through the folded portions of the vamp; a welt-strip lying over the outturned portion of the vamp and extending at each end beyond the edges of said vamp; and fastenings securing the said welt and outwardly-turned marginal portion of the vamp together and to the said ,outer sole, said fastenings overlapping or breaking joint with the throughand-through fastenings, substantially as and for the purpose described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 5th day of June, A. D. 1900.

JAMES E. JACKSON.

Witnesses:

C. P. DAVIS, ARTHUR W. CRossLEY. 

